From Tuscany to Rome, a golfing trip of epic proportions

Think of Tuscany and you’ll probably think of vineyards, nice food and the words “bella bella”, “chow” or some other stereotypical Italian maxim. I would however take a small wager that golf would not enter into your mind. Well, it certainly didn’t for me and I didn’t know what to expect from my four day golf jaunt across Italy last week.

My first mistake was thinking that Tuscany would be sunny, warm and bright in mid-March. I must admit it was rather short-sighted of me to take just a jumper to keep me warm on the golf course especially as I had seen the weather forecast for that week.

Unfortunately, during my stay, Italy saw a spell of the worst weather it’s seen in years resulting in me smuggling peanuts for the vast majority of the trip. The other lads, a collection of journalists from across the UK all seemed chipper in their woolly hats and Galvin Green wind stoppers, where as I contemplated setting myself on fire on more than one occasion just to keep the circulation going. Luckily, I’m a smoker so I instead opted for the ‘one-ciggy-per-hole’ method of warming up from the inside out. With that and a few belts of Killick’s Cognac, the cold didn’t seem quite so cold after all.

In fairness, one of the organisers of the trip Pete offered me one of his waterproof pullovers. I’ve obviously packed away a few more kebabs than him though so putting it on was akin to being wrapped tightly in cling film thereby displaying every one of those Saturday night donners. I decided I’d be better off cold.

Talking of packing away the treats at super-fat-podger levels of consumption brings me neatly to possibly my favourite part of the trip, the food. I have been to hundreds of Italian restaurants and thought I was pretty aux-fait with the range of tortellini what-nots and spag bol specials but I was truly surprised at how utterly different real Italian food is.

At every destination we parked our humble behinds, we were offered course after course of beautiful homemade pasta dishes, mozzarella and cured meats of every kind. Real truffles and fine steaks to die for thrown down with some of best wine I’ve ever had the pleasure to sup. If there’s one thing the Italians have definitely sussed, it’s the food. I’d revisit Italy for that reason alone, it would be so worth the trip.

In fact I don’t think I was actually hungry at any point in the entire four day trip. By the time my digestive system had filled my once hollow legs with one meal, another fine foray of Italy’s finest was dutifully being stuffed down to keep things topped up. As much as I loved it, I couldn’t live there. I’d rival the Coliseum in size before the year was out.

Golf is still viewed as an elite sport in most of Europe and Italy is not much different. By the very fact that I was invited there though goes to show that they want to cash in on the great British golf pound which is good news. It means cheaper prices and hotel package deals that allow you to play Italy’s courses at discounted rates.

A great example of this is found at the excellent Country Club Castelgandolfo in Rome whose clubhouse is set in a former Cardinal’s residence on top of a volcanic crater. A more Italian spectacle you could not ask for as you stand sipping your espresso on the balcony. You can gaze out across the entire course which was laid out below your feet in quite a majestic scene of golfer’s paradise.

The club has a range of large, luxury suites available to rent just across the car park which are offered at a stunningly good rate. Two nights in a luxury suite overlooking the golf course, continental breakfast in the clubhouse on both days and one unlimited round of golf will set you back just €99 per person. An extra night is only €50 and if you want to go at the weekend it’s just another €10.

It’s this course more than any I visited which can truly live up to the claim of making Rome “The New Golf Destination”. I still can’t believe how cheap it is considering the quality of the place. If you fancy visiting Rome then it’s the perfect base for next to nothing.

Be warned though, it’s a long course especially when it’s wet. An average par four should really be played as a par five on this course. It’s a great course though and offers everything you need in good measure. There’s a good amount of water to add to the challenge but not too much to make it pretentious. Everything is there for a purpose which I love to see in a course.

Challenging par threes and uphill par fives all culminate to make the experience a real good test of your game. The climb back up to the clubhouse after the 18th is enough to give you a coronary heart attack mind you so make sure you use the ’Phone the caddy master’ service and get him to come and pick you up. We weren’t so clever and spent ten minutes bent over wheezing to recover at the top.

You won’t go wrong at this place, it’s perfectly positioned, reasonably priced and again, the food was exceptional. In fact, I’m going back next year I liked it so much. Check out their website at www.golfresortcastelgandolfo.com for more information on booking your trip.

The first stop on our trip brought us to a resort course called Cordial Golf Resort Il Pelagone in Southern Tuscany on the slope of Monte Calvo. We arrived as the light was dimming and the snow was starting to fall. It’s unheard of in this region though so we were definitely unlucky.

It was the most hospitable venue we visited and I’d recommend it to anyone. The place had a really friendly atmosphere and nice cosy apartment style rooms which would be perfect for a trip away with the family. The rooms were perhaps a little dated in styling but more suited to the region than a glittering five star stupidly expensive kind of place would be; it just wouldn’t fit in here. It suited us fine anyway and the food was the best we had in Italy, full stop. It really was amazing and the chef there should be congratulated for a job well done.

The golf course was pretty worn after a heavy winter but it was very playable and I imagine a month from now it will be in lovely condition again. We only managed to get nine holes in before we lost the light but I really enjoyed it. It’s a course for average players so it won’t destroy a shorter hitter’s game and is a perfect resort course with all the amenities you’d want.

That said, the resort is quite out of the way so if you’re looking for somewhere to use as a base to go out in the evenings from, you probably wouldn’t want to visit here in March as it’s too quiet. Again, check out their website at www.pelagone.com for more information and their special deals.

After a cracking night at Il Pelagone and lots and lots and lots of red wine, we packed up early and travelled to Argentario Golf Resort & Spa which is a true site to behold. Nestled into the side of a mountain in the middle of nowhere is this vast sprawling structure sticking up out of the ground just enough to create a front entrance that would wow the hardiest of critics.

As soon as you step through the front doors into the lobby, it just takes your breath away. It’s uber-cool design at its very finest. Every wool covered chair, black marble surface and curved light bulb comes together to give you that ‘yeah baby, I’ve made it’ kind of feeling.

Mind you, you would have to have ‘made it’ big style to stay here because let me tell you, it is not cheap. The cheapest room they do in off-season is €190 a night for a single and €220 for a double and they “don’t do discounts sir” as one of the hotel’s representatives pointed out as one of our chaps asked for information on any golf break deals.

Although I quoted the superior room prices above, it’s really an all-suite hotel and they range from €220 in off-season to €1200 a night for the Penthouse Suite in high-season. As you are in the middle of no-where you will also get stung for every bottle of water, packet of crisps and golf tee that you will inevitably require during your stay. I checked out their pro-shop to see if I could get myself a new waterproof but the cheapest I could find was €180. Again, I thought I’d be better off cold.

At the end of the day though, you get what you pay for and the Junior Suite I stayed in was probably the nicest room I’ve ever stayed in with the exception of Turnberry Hotel in Scotland. The bath was built for at least six people to bathe in at once which was quite a treat and if you want to feel pampered and rich, then this is the place to go although the place was totally empty in March so unless you want it real quiet, then you’d probably be better off in summer.

The golf course attached to the resort is an absolute monster. It’s gargantuan in length and will rip the life from your very soul, chew it up and bury it under the sand next to the 18th green. In the sopping wet weather we had, it plays every one of its 6218 metres. A well struck 300 yard drive and a decent 3 wood off the deck will still leave you a good pitching wedge away from the green on an average par 4 on this course.

To say it was a challenge is the understatement of the century and will leave some golfers wishing they’d stayed at home. This course can only really be played when it’s dry to give you every possible chance of extra run on your ball. Even some big hitting pros would struggle with this epic golf adventure in a waterlogged March. A driver was the standard club of choice on most of the par 3 tees and I am not a small hitter.

The front was the best nine by a long shot…ahem. It was feature-full and led toward the sea where you could duly strap your golf clubs to your ankles and jump-in. Those wishing for more punishment could attack the back nine which was pretty flat and somewhat lacking in feature. Huge expanses of fairway await your best efforts to take you home to the club house.

I’d probably feel differently if I hadn’t had such a hangover and was wearing more than a jumper in the snow but even then, it’s an epic. The golf however was pretty cheap at 65 Euro in the winter and 90 in high season. I’m just not quite sure if they were supposed to pay me or I was supposed to pay them? Anyway, it’s a cracking place that I will surely never have the money to return to but special, it most definitely is. You can check out their website at www.argentariogolfresortspa.it

Before our trip was over we managed to fit in a round at Parco di Roma which was a great course in Rome. It seems that you can’t actually play it though anymore as they’ve barred non-members from paying a green fee and playing. It’s a shame as although long, the course was very well laid out and definitely worth a visit. It was my favourite golf course of the trip. It did have quite a stuck-up, elitist feel about it which I didn’t really like but they do a massive amount for their junior golfers so I’ll forgive them that.

In fact, the course has over 300 junior members to its name which is astonishing. I wish British clubs would do more for juniors over here and stop fretting about them holding up play and silly things like that. Parco di Roma is investing in its future and that’s a great thing to see.

I must say, we were not 100% sure that you couldn’t play at Parco di Roma so if you’re visiting give them a call, you never know. The president of the club suggested that it could be around €65 and this course is worth every penny. Check out their website at www.golfparcodiroma.it

Our final night brought us to the Grand Hotel Villa dei Papi which offered great views over a volcanic crater, nice rooms and a well stocked bar. Again, a great place to explore Rome from and friendly staff to make you feel welcome. A local restaurant provided another 12 courses of stunning Italian food and wine which finished our trip on a high.

Italy will be a golf destination to rival the very best before long and when they get more package deals in order they’ll be unstoppable. The Italians have food on their side you see which simply cannot be rivalled in many other European countries. I would definitely go back to Italy to sample more of the golf, food and culture and I can’t wait for the next opportunity to visit.

I’d like to take this opportunity to thank the trip’s organisers Andy and Pete, my travelling companions, the Italian Tourist Board and all the excellent hotels, restaurants and golf courses we visited for an outstanding display of hospitality. It was top-draw and has left me desperate to get on the next plane to Italy for another wine-fuelled tour with the boys. Thanks.

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